North!

We love the food in Vicksburg so we thought we could also get a really great Southern breakfast there.  We asked the ladies last night at Rusty's as to where the best breakfast in Vicksburg was.  In unison they replied, "Waffle House!"  I thought we needed another opinion so this morning I asked a staff person at our hotel.  Without hesitation, she said, "Waffle House!  And there's one right beside the hotel!"  So, Waffle House it was.  Turns out they were right.  No red-eye gravy, but everything else was good.  The grits were second only to the cheese grits we had at Rusty's last night.

We had been talking about our route home.  Our original plans were to spend a night in Memphis and then cruise back to Decatur on Friday.  But, we've been to Memphis several times and since we're headed out again on Monday we decided just to drive on....giving us an extra day to catch up and repack.  So, home it was....about ten hours of driving on this beautiful day!

Got home around 8:30....and I know it's trite, but it's also true.  There's no place like home!

P.S.  Maryellen: Yes, we've searched for aliens, but we didn't search for Elvis.  We already know where he is....and he says "Hey!"

Mississippi!

Mona has always wanted to see the sunrise on the beach and today was the day!  it was a truly beautiful morning with lots of colors and dramatic clouds....so, I took pictures for her!  (C'mon you knew that was coming!  Mona is still Mona!)

School of Rays

Rays and skates were cruising the beach this morning so I took a pic and texted it to Mona…..not long after, she was down on the beach with me....talk about LIKE!  We walked the beach for a couple of hours; watching the rays go one way and the seabirds go another.  After about an hour each group changed directions.  Anyone got any ideas as to why??

Really enjoyed our beach visit, but time to move on.  Our destination was Vicksburg, Mississippi and we drove on non-interstate roads all the way across Mississippi.  Forests across much of the way, with stands virtually every mile advertising Cajun shrimp and boiled peanuts.  Tempting, but we moved on.

Finally stopped at a Wards for lunch.  Had never heard of this chain until today.  Asked our server what Wards was famous for.  “Chilli Burger” was the reply. Soooo good!  Glad there aren’t any of these close to Illinois!

Our first stop in Vicksburg was the Vicksburg National Military Park…where the Battle of Vicksburg was fought and where 20.000 lost their lives.  The visit begins with a 20 minute movie where you’re given an excellent overview of the battle and the key people involved.  You then drive through the park and use your phone to listen to commentary about the battles and the memorials.  So many memorial stones….so many gravestones.   Another reminder of the steep price that has been paid for freedom in our country.

U.S.S. Cairo

The U.S.S. Cairo Exhibit was a highlight of our visit.  Remember the Battle of the Monitor and Merrimack…the first ironclad ships?  The Cairo was a direct descendent of the Monitor ; built by James Eads (Eads Bridge!) at Carondelet…just south of St. Louis.  The Cairo saw action in several Civil War battles, but saw its end in the Yazoo River when it became the first ship ever sunk by a torpedo.  It lay at rest in the river for over 90 years, but has since been raised from the river and has been restored as much as possible.  Words can’t describe how this ship brings history to life….the heat of the boilers, the noise of the cannon and the smell of the gunpowder and sweat. This is an incredible exhibit and it alone is worth a visit to Vicksburg.

As you exit the park you see thousands and thousands of graves….the vast majority (0ver 17,000) marked “Unknown”.  How sad for all those families who would never know.  (Did you know there are graves of Civil War unknown soldiers in Decatur, Illinois?  We were geocaching in Greenwood Cemetary there and the cache led us to these graves.)

It was time for dinner….and we wanted something Vicksburgian….no chain food…just local.  Finally, we were pointed to “Rusty’s”, a place in old town section, down on the river.  There was a wait, so we sat outside with some local women.  We started talking and they ended up telling us what we “MUST” order.  We ordered everything they told us to.  O.M.G! 

Fried Green Tomatoes topped with Hollanaise and lump crab
Fried crawfish tails
Broiled shrimp
Broiled scallops
And last, but definitely not least....cheese grits!Such, such good food!  Easily the best fried tomatoes’ we’ve ever had…and the grits…oh my! 

It was way too much food and we had to leave a lot...but we so enjoyed getting a taste of Vicksburg!

We’ve really enjoyed visiting Vicksburg and would love to come here again.  We’d like to stay in a Bed and Breakfast and take our time, Southern Time, to enjoy all this delightful city has to offer!

Tomorrow is Thursday, we think.  Time to turn northwards and see what lies between here and home.

Day 5 – Sweet Home Alabama!

Our first stop today was Montgomery, Alabama.  Our day began with the first Confederate White House.  Jefferson Davis and his wife Varina Howell lived here for about four months in early 1861.  Soon, the Confederate Legislature decided Montgomery was too hot and moved the capital to Richmond, Virginia.  (I’m sure there were more reasons, but this one is specifically mentioned in the brochure.)   This was an “interesting” experience.  I’ve avoided pro-Confederacy sites and didn’t know what to think/expect.  I was surprised that Jefferson Davis reluctantly agreed to the presidency….and that the Confederate Legislature believed the Constitution was still the best form of government…they just thought the Union had it wrong on equality. 

Civil Rights Memorial

Next we visited the Civil Rghts Memorial, just three blocks north.  Martin Luther King is quoted on a vertical stone above a central stone.  The stone is inscribed with key events of the Civil Rights Movement.  Murders, lynchings, marches, and legislation.  It’s a somber walk around the stone….reading about the price many had to pay for true freedom.

Our last stop in Montgomery was the Rosa Parks Museum.  This is a small museum with a big message.  It tells the story of how an assistant tailor finally had enough of the indignity of segregation on Montgomery buses….and how she became the mother of the Civil Rights Movement.  She was “just a woman” who sat for her rights….nothing violent, nothing disrespectful.  Her simple act of courage changed the course of our nation.  Visiting this museum takes only an hour…but the message it conveys will last a lifetime.

Montgomery is a beautiful city, full of history, well worth a visit if you’re in the area.

Balcony View

Orange Beach, Alabama was our next stop.  We got a hotel right on the beach….nothing between our room and the water but sand!  (Okay, a patio and a boardwalk, but you get the picture!)  One of our first missions was to find a restaurant on the beach…one that had outside dining and great seafood.  There were none, really, none.  Hurricane Ivan took out this coast in 2005.  All such restaurants were destroyed…and the big hotels took over the coast.  There are miles of tall glitzy hotels on the beach, but no beachside restaurants serving boiled shrimp with rolls of napkins on the table.  Damn!

World Famous Doc's Gumbo

Finally, we met a local and asked where to get good seafood.  “Doc's” he said.  “Everyone eats there.”  He has lived in the area all his life and he knew where the restaurant was, but couldn’t give directions worth a lick.  No matter, our iPhones led the way!  Once there, we were in Gulf seafood heaven.  Gumbo, boiled shrimp, fried shrimp, cole slaw…and of course, little cups of horseradish to make sure you get your seafood sauce just right!  This is a do-over!

Topped off our day with a walk on the beach to star gaze and just being together.  There is nothing like “being” on a starlit beach….and especially when Venus is the brightest diamond in the sky.  Need more of this!

DRT 4 - Biltmore and Woodstock

Started the day with a visit to the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina….with most of our focus on the mansion.  The estate sits on 8000 acres and the mansion itself covers 4 ½ acres.  The mansion was built between 1889 and 1895 and consists of 250 rooms and 43 bathrooms.  (In the 1890s most homes had no bathrooms….much less 43!)  The home has its own two lane bowling alley and an indoor swimming pool with electric lights.  It takes over 1800 people to manage and maintain this estate!  Did I say this was built by George Vanderbilt….whose grandfather made his fortune in shipping?  Also, the estate originally consisted over 125,000 acres, but much of it was sold to the United States and is now the Pisgah National Forest. 

After you pay your entrance fee you drive up a winding three mile road to get to the mansion.  The trees and shrubs along the way are beautiful and a sight unto themselves.  We parked the car and decided to walk to the mansion instead of taking the shuttle.  As we came out of the forest this incredible French chateau  with gargoyles, statues and perfectly groomed greenery seemed to magically appear in front of us!

Gargoyles On Guard

Immediately upon entry into the mansion we were captivated by the elaborate décor and the incredible attention to every detail.  Lavish tapestries,  intricate ceilings, beautiful statuary;  and this was just the entry!  Our tour encompassed 46 of the 250 rooms and each room was a sight to see.  Dining rooms, sitting rooms, billiard rooms….on and on and on.  This home was built to be fit for a king….and it still remains the largest and one of the most impressive homes in the United States.  (Note: No pictures are allowed of the inside of the mansion.  You'll have to visit to see for yourself!)

A tiny portion of the gardens

As we left, Mona leaned over to me and said, “It’s me.  I could definitely live here!”  I simply hit the gas and sped away.

The drive out of the estate is four miles…again, we impressed with the sculpted landscape…seemingly natural, but everything placed just-so for maximum beauty.  Along the way, we encountered several  geese and their goslings.  We had to stop for several minutes as the goslings were led across the road.  It must have felt like a long journey to the little ones, as they kept sitting down to take breaks and rest a bit.

We avoided the temptation of stopping at the Biltmore Winery and set our sights for Woodstock, Georgia.  We passed through Spartanburg, South Carolina, of course picking up our first South Carolina cache, and turned to the west on I-85.  The drive through here is comprised of rolling hills with lush forests on either side.  Mona was driving, and yes, we both checked to make sure we had plenty of gas!

On this drive we kept hitting pockets of severe thunderstorms…driving along at 70 miles an hour and in bright sunshine.  Suddenly, the windshield would get sloshed with a cloudburst of rain and all the cars ahead would slam on their brakes.   Traffic would slow to a crawl with everyone’s flashers blinking away while each car was trying to avoid all the others.  After a few minutes, the sun would break through, the green flag would come out and accelerators were once again pressed to floor.  All this made for a very interesting drive to Atlanta.  (Glad I wasn't driving!)

In the evening, we link up with Shannon, April and Nate and go to Pure Taqueria in Woodstock.   This isn’t your normal Mexican restaurant with burritos, rice and beans.  The menu includes braised lamb shank, red snapper and duck confit; all Mexican-style of course.  Apparently, we’re all in the mood for a little lighter fare, because three of us ordered the same thing: Pescado a la parrilla, citrus grilled fish tacos.  Nate and Mona opted for quesadillas.  We chose wisely…perfectly cooked white fish with just the right amount of citrus and spice.  Yum! 

But wait, the real reason we’re here is because April keeps bragging about how this place has the best margaritas in the world.  We know that simply can’t be true, because the best are served at Blue Coyote in Palm Springs.  (Everyone knows that!)   The taste test is on!  April explains that it’s a particular rita called, “The Sedgwick”.   Four are ordered and delivered.  Taste….hmmm…doesn’t taste like sugared lime-aide.  Hmmm….a little smoky/spicy taste of tequila…..gotta admit, these are pretty close to Blue Coyote’s.  Now….need to figure out how to set them up side by side for the final contest!

Nate's First Find!

After dinner we get the question, “What’s this geocaching thing you guys keep talking about?”  We show them the app and then off the five of us go to a nearby park for the hunt!  We scour the band gazebo for about 15 minutes, with no luck.  No matter, Blues Clues #3 is only two tenths away.  Off we go!

What a great day!  Now, it’s time for the next one.  We’re headed south to the Gulf.  Not sure where we’re going to land…but hopefully tomorrow morning we can walk a beach and listen to the surf!  Will keep you posted!

P.S.  And Shannon, we'll keep that little thing about my billfold just between us.  Okay?

DRT 3 - Dixie Driving

Okay, this is the third time I’ve typed this.  Not impressed with Google’s revisions to their blog product…NOT at all!  No matter….back to the blog!

We left Bardstown this morning around 8:00, driving eastward on Route 150.  Saw lots of beautiful horse farms and many homes that looked as though they had been abandoned 100 years ago, except for the refrigerators on the porch and the new F150s in the drive.

Falls Rainbow

Cumberland Falls

Mona soon realized we were driving very near to Cumberland Falls.  She, Laura and Terry (Laura’s dad) had spent two vacations there and Mona thought I’d like to see the falls.  We took a little detour off into the Kentucky wilderness and meandered to the falls.  Even as we parked we could hear the water flowing through the rocks….one of Mona’s favorite sounds! 

The falls are beautiful and we got to see two rainbows from the first observation platform.  We walked a couple of trails and got to see several great views of the falls.  This would definitely be a great place to vacation!

We then drove south on I-75 to Knoxville and then turned East on I-40.  Just outside of Knoxville we stopped for lunch and gas.  I “gassed up” the car and off we went.  About thirty miles later Mona exclaimed, “We’re almost out of gas!!!”  I guess I only virtually gassed up the car and now we were deep into the mountains with no gas stations in sight.  As Walter would say, “Dumbaaaasssss!)

Well, it was a beautiful drive anyway…..through the Smokey Mountains.  Lots of streams, mountains and wonderful views.  Of course, the drive would have been less stressful had we had a little more gas in the car.  (Am I the only one who can hear Walter saying, “Dumbass!”)

Eastbound on I 40

We got into Asheville around 4:00.  It was rainy…and we were a little stressed (see above) from driving on winding mountain roads with virtually no gas. (S.H.U.T. U.P. Walter!)

Anyway... a bit stressed and needing some escapism….so to the movies we went.  Saw The Avengers and loved it!  Great fun movie with lots of action and comedy.  Be sure to stay to the absolute end!

Went geocaching afterwards and found our 800^th cache.  Then to Chili’s for dinner.  We met three guys there….one of which had played fastpitch softball at Borg-Warner field in Decatur.  Also, the bartender was born in Springfield, Illinois.  Small World!  (But I wouldn’t want to paint it!)  ($1.00 to the first person who guesses that reference!)

Tomorrow is the biggest house in the U.S….then, Atlanta! 

PS  Sorry to all who saw numeroius updates with nothing to see.  Google Blogger is acting weird tonight!

DRT 2 - Kentucky Derby

The day started with rain...thunderstorms all night long and lots of rain.  Looked out the window this morning to see the parking lot semi-flooded.  Can't help but to wonder what the infield of Churchhill Downs is going to be like after all that rain.  No matter, it's The Derby and we can't wait!  We pack up our rain ponchos and gird up for infield mud.  Off we go!

We arrive a little before 11:00. We're entranced immediately upon entry.  Roses everywhere, women in hats of every size, shape and color....Art abounds.  Men are also dressed in every way imaginable, with a prevelance of light suits and ties. 

MNM (Mona and Moet)

We're thirsty...where to start?  Mint julips or champagne....hmmm...the Moet is pretty compelling so champaign it is!  We stroll around sipping and enjoying the incredible scenery....which consists primarily of people.  If you're a people watcher this is the place to be!  And if you're a hat lover...then this would be heaven.  By day's end there are over 150,000 people are here and easily 75% of them are wearing hats....especially the women.  In Decatur, Mona's home made hat might seem a bit flamboyant, but here...it fits right in!
And for the record...I wore a hat too.  Here's a picture to prove it.  And yes, I'm smiling in the pic...on the inside!  :-)  We must have taken 50 pictures of hats and whatnot...and could have taken 1000 without scatching the surface of what was there to see.

We spent a lot of time around the paddock...this is normally one of our favorite spots at the track and where we decide whether the horse is pretty enough to bet on.  (What can I say...we have a system and the horse's physical appearance is very important!)

However, looking at all these pictures you will note one thing in common.....not a single pic of a horse!  That's because even though we are in the paddock area there are simply so many people that we can't see a horse.  This won't do!

We decide to head for the infield...after all, that's where our tickets are for.  This wasn't as easy as it might sound as there is only one way to the infield and it's not well marked.  Luckily, we are able to locate a stand selling Mint Julips so we are well libated during our search!

At last we find the way....it's all the way behind the paddock...not an easy path since there are thousands of people in our way...but we struggle through.

Infield Horses

The infield is a different world!  Still lots of incredible outfits, but also lots of tees and shorts.  Still Artistic, but in a different way.  Also, the crowd here is a little more rowdy....strike that, a LOT more rowdy! There is lots of noise including DJs and people dancing.  But, there is no noise of horses racing nor of people cheering.  None. Horses are are racing around us, but you can't hear it at all.  This is a huge party but the only things related to horses are on hats!

We wander and ogle, but decide that we're more the paddock sort so off we go!  We get back and "discover" about 20,000 more people are there.  Lots and lots more hats and outfits....and people.  Who would have thought that more people could fit in, but they did! 

Now we're hungry...we stand in line for literally 40 minutes to get Carolina BBQ.  Got to talk to some people from Miami so the time wasn't a total waste.  Got our food and found a corner of the patio to sit and eat.  There are about 53 benches for about 100,000 people so you can't be choosy where you sit!

Back to the paddock....more people!

Back to the infield.....way more people!  It's amazing, Churchill Downs is never sold out.  So long as you show up with money you are allowed in.  Today a new attendance record of about 168,000 was set.  I think we got to touch them all! 

Okay...now here's the big reveal!  We were at Churchill Downs for about 5 hours and we barely got a glimpse of a horse....much less smell a horse or hear the pounding of horses coming down the homestretch.  We did get to enjoy the spectacle, spectacular....and that was in itself totally cool.  But damn it, we wanted to see the Derby!  So we did it....we left.  Yep, took forever to wade through all those people to gate 10, but we did.  Walked back to our car and drove in minimal traffic back to Bardsville.  Changed into dry clothes and headed to Old Talbott Tavern....established in 1782.

5 local bourbons

At the tavern we joined up with many native Kentuckians who wanted to watch the Derby.  It didn't take long to find out that we weren't the only ones who had been to Churchill Downs, but wanted to see horses run.  We ordered the bourbon tasting and settled back to watch the Derby.  When the horses left the gate the whole place went silent.  About the third turn everyone started cheering for their horse!  And for the last couple of hundred yards everyone was cheering for I'll Have Another and that great run down the homestretch.

We loved going to Churchill Downs on Derby Day...especially the first few hours.  However, this is a bucket list item we have no desire to repeat.  (Unlike Bucket Item #17!)  We will continue to go to tracks on "normal days" and immerse ourselves in the track culture.  We will also watch the Kentucky Derby.....but always somewhere where we can actually see the horses run!

Next up, Asheville, North Carolina!

DRT 1 - Bardstown

Today we began our Dixie Road Trip....a short driving trip through most of the states south of the Mason Dixon Line.  We've been to all of the states on our itinerary, but this trip will take us on different routes so we get to see many new sights along the way.  And, of course, we'll be geocaching in every state we visit.  We have geocached in only 12 of the 48 states we plan to hit this year, so we're counting on adding a few more this trip. 


My Old Kentucky Home

We drove through Indiana today and down to Bardstown, Kentucky.  Bardstown is a small town of about 10,000 and is about 45 minutes south of Louisville.  There are lots of historic sights in Bardstown, including the home that inspired Stephen Foster to write "My Old Kentucky Home."  There was a cache in front of the home and they had an outside music system playing Stephen Foster songs.  Very cool!

Private tasting!

Bardstown is also famous for its bourbon distilleries...there must be ten of them within a 20 mile radius.  All of them have tours and tastings...but unfortunately, they all close around 4:00 PM....just when we got here.  No problem, we're creative and had our own private tasting!

Kentucky Hot Brown

Dinner was at Mammy's Kitchen...a local diner that specializes in Souther cuisine.  Appetizers were fried green tomatoes.  For dinner I tried Kentucky Hot Brown: two slices of Texas toast, covered with turkey and ham, then covered in turkey gravy and ham gravy.  Then bacon and a couple of layers of cheese.  It gets broiled then a slice of tomate is the garnish...gotta make it healthy!  It's so rich I couldn't eat even half of it.  I think this would be an ideal food for teenage boys!

After dinner we cached.  There are caches throughout town at historical places.  It's a great way to get a guided tour of the area and to get some exercise.

Tomorrow is the Kentucky Derby!  Between us we've wanted to go the Derby for 90 years...talk about a long-term bucket list item! Tomorrow, it happens!

P.S.....saw these in a store window next to Mammies...guess who they remind us of?

In a local store window